Spring is here and it’s the perfect time of year to get your lawn in tip-top shape. After the long winter it is finally time to give your lawn some much needed love and attention. These tips will not only leave your lawn looking better than ever but they will also set you up for success for the rest of the year. Putting in the time and effort now will save you hours down the line, especially when it comes to battling pesky weeds or starting up the lawn mower after months of it sitting idle.
So here they are, 8 of the best lawn care tips for spring:
1. Rake
Rake the lawn in the spring to remove any debris, dead grass, leaves, twigs, and thatch. Snow mold disease may have infected your lawn throughout the winter and raking will help break up matted patches of grass, removing the damage. Even if you raked vigorously in the fall, another good raking in the spring is suggested for optimal lawn results.
2. Test
Healthy soil pH is essential for a healthy lawn. Grass grows best in soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.2 to 7.0 and weeds thrive in acidic soil with a low pH. Balancing the soil pH means you will need to do less weed control in the future. Contact your county cooperative extension and ask if they can test your soil for you or buy a soil test kit to do it yourself. If your soil pH is either too low or too high add Mag-I-Cal Plus for either acidic soil or alkaline soil according to the directions on the bag. If you live in the eastern USA and have not limed your lawn in years it is very likely that your pH is quite low and you need to adjust it.
3. Aerate
Soil compaction is not only caused by heavy traffic, it is a direct result of the depletion of organic matter (humus) and microorganisms in the soil. Both are essential in carrying out the necessary biological and chemical processes needed for long-term grass health.
When the surface layer of soil is hard and compacted the grass roots cannot grow deep into the ground, becoming starved for water, oxygen, and nutrients (see diagram above). Hard soil also leads to an environment where weeds can thrive.
You can test for soil compaction by gently pushing a screwdriver into the soil. If you have to exert force to push the screwdriver up to the handle your soil is compacted. You can rent a core aerator from your local hardware store or rental equipment dealer. Do not try to aerate your lawn by “spiking” it with a pitchfork as that can lead to more compaction. Proper aeration removes soil plugs that drop on the lawn and break down in a few weeks.
However mechanical aeration alone does not build the humus you need to cure soil compaction, because it does not stimulate or grow the soil’s microbial life. Whether or not you core aerate your lawn, spread Jonathan Green Love Your Soil as it contains the special ingredients needed to naturally aerate soil over time, building humus and topsoil.
4. Fertilize
After months of neglect, your lawn is hungry! Tip number four: fertilize your lawn this spring. There is no need to go overboard but it’s important to give your lawn the nutrients it needs to grow to its fullest potential. Make sure to use the correct fertilizer- if you are reseeding your lawn use a new seeding fertilizer which is high in phosphorus.
5. Overseed
Speaking of seeding, notice any bare patches in your grass? This is a great time to reseed or overseed the lawn! It is important to get these areas reseeded quickly to prevent weeds from filling in all of the bare spots. If your grass is looking a bit thin, overseed the whole lawn. Be sure that the newly planted grass is raked into loosened soil which will ensure the best germination. Not sure how to seed? Check out our Seeding Guide.
6. Weed
Have you ever waited until the middle of spring to take a look at your lawn and realized that it has become overrun with weeds? That’s why the time to act is now! There are two types of weeds, grassy weeds such as crabgrass and broadleaf weeds such as dandelions. Both are controlled using different products but they can be applied at the same time. To stop crabgrass from taking over your lawn later in the season put down Crabgrass Preventer plus Green Up Lawn Fertilizer. If you have broadleaf weeds already such as chickweed, clover or dandelions use Lawn Weed Control. The latter slowly kills these weeds but it does not contain fertilizer so you won’t be overfeeding your lawn. Both of these products can be applied on the same day.
If you have only small patches of weeds you can dig them out by hand but be sure to get out all of the roots to prevent them from spreading to other parts of the lawn.
7. Water
Don’t do more work than you need to! Only water your lawn if it needs to be watered. There is usually enough rainfall in April to take care of irrigation for you. But if not, the rule of thumb is to apply one inch of water per week. Water deeply for about 30 minutes in each area, but no more than two to three times a week. Watering deeply and less frequently will encourage strong healthy roots.
8. Tune
Has your lawn mower been sitting in your garage all winter? Then it probably needs a tune-up! Make sure the blades are cleaned and sharpened, change the oil, check the spark plug and clean the air filter. A dull mower blade will shred the grass blade, providing an opening for turf disease. Plus, mowing your lawn can be a struggle if you don’t take care of your equipment.
If it would only stop raining long enough here in Ohio for me to get my lawn weed control put on my lawn. By the way, thanks for all your wonderful products my lawn looks fantastic ♥️♥️♥️
Thank you Barbara!
what can I do about clover in my yard
Apply Lawn Weed Control when temperatures are and will remain under 85° for several days. Apply to a wet lawn when no rain is expected for 48 hours. Water after 48 hours. For a summer fertilizer we recommend our Organic Lawn Food. There is no risk of lawn burn in the heat when using an organic product.
We are in Southern Maine. It is currently early April. We bought this house last year. The grass was pretty sparse and brown in spots but it had been maintained with a 5 step program by a lawn company. We heavy seeded in the fall with a slicer/seeder with a blend of perennial rye, Kentucky blue, and fescue. The soil here seems to be more clay and the grass in the spring stays pretty wet. It gets alot of sun with some shade in parts. What do you suggest we do now in the spring and when do you think we should put down step 1? Do we need to aerate again or was the slicer seeder in the fall enough? Thanks
We recommend applying Green-Up Weed & Feed around mid April in your area. We do not recommend aerating in the spring as it can bring up weeds seeds to the surface where they will germinate.
Love all of your products and have been using them for 2 years now. I’m having a real problem with moss everywhere, even in sunny areas…I’ve raked it out…killed it with moss control. Increased my PH (with love my soil) and it comes back with a vengeance…Do you have any ideas? I feel like fighting a losing battle! Thanks!!!!
Hi Ted,
It sounds like you’ve already done a lot of work and ruled out some possible causes! However, moss is caused by a number of conditions: insufficient sunlight due to shade, a low pH or acidic soil, low soil fertility, heavy or compacted soil and soil that is too wet.
Check if your soil is compacted and needs aeration, has low fertility and needs to be fed, or if your lawn is too wet and needs less water. Like we said in the article you don’t need to water your lawn every day.
If you have any other questions feel free to send us an email at ask@jonathangreen.com and we can send you more resources!
Jonathan Green Customer Service
Hi! Would like more information about how to rid my grass of moss before it takes over my lawn. Should I up the PH before I use magical cal?
Hi Lori,
Moss can be eradicated by mechanical means such as hard raking or scraping. You can also rent equipment to help in this job if you are trying to fix a large area and use Lawn Moss Control. This will kill the moss usually within 7-10 days, turning the moss black.
However, moss is caused by a number of conditions: insufficient sunlight due to shade, a low pH or acid soil, low soil fertility, heavy or compacted soil and soil that is too wet. If you do not solve the underlying problem then moss will continue to return to your lawn.
Mag-i-cal will help adjust your pH to neutral which will make grass thrive and moss hard to survive.
Hope that helps!
Hi, I’d love to know your cure for a really mossy yard. I had it aerated last fall. What can I do to get my grass back?
Thanks!
Moss can be eradicated by mechanical means such as hard raking or scraping. You can also rent equipment to help in this job if you are trying to fix a large area and use Lawn Moss Control. This will kill the moss usually within 7-10 days, turning the moss black.
However, moss is caused by a number of conditions: insufficient sunlight due to shade, a low pH or acid soil, low soil fertility, heavy or compacted soil and soil that is too wet. If you do not solve the underlying problem then moss will continue to return to your lawn.
Mag-i-cal will help adjust your pH to neutral which will make grass thrive and moss hard to survive.
Hope that helps!
I love your products, unfortunately the Handyman Hardware where I purchase your products is going to quit selling them. Now I have to try and find them somewhere else. My lawn looks great. Thank you!
Hi Joyce,
We’re so happy that you enjoy our products! We have a store locator on our website (link below) that can help you find another location.
https://www.jonathangreen.com/jonathan-green-store-locator.html
Jonathan Green Customer Service
You haven’t mention a winter mole or voles problem. Late winter I noticed trails all over the back yard after a light snow. The grass is puffy. Any help?
Hi George,
Check out this blog that we posted a few years ago. Hope that helps!
https://www.jonathangreen.com/blog/whats-the-difference-between-moles-and-voles.html
Jonathan Green Customer Service
I put down Crabgrass Preventer + Green Up and Mag-i-cal Plus down aat the same time and the lawn is starting to look green and lush. I do have some yellow patches and some cloves popping up/not going away…what do you suggest? You guys make great stuff and my lawn has always been the envy of the neighbors (6+ years!).
Hi Amir,
We’re so happy to hear that your lawn is looking great! Can you please send us photos of the yellow spots in your lawn at ask@jonathangreen.com so we can assist you further?
Thanks!
Jonathan Green Customer Service
been using jonathan green products for many years t cross all the te’s and dot all i’s this spring followed every thing to the t with terrible results, the yard looks beautiful ,however if u walk around and look at it lookes like i planted chick weed and clover and some dandylions .Dont know y i put down preemergent w/fert watered in its been over 3 weeks ph is good, ground temp was 55 when iput down product did not do its job very displeased
Green-Up with Crabgrass Preventer is a pre-emergent for listed weeds and crabgrass. The early spring weeds like chickweed usually have already germinated prior to application. pull the chickweed to keep it from going to seed. It will die out when it gets hot.
Thank you very much for always being polite and helpful when I call from Virginia. Beac,VA.Both Barry senior, and Barry jr as well as Heather,the lady that always answers the telephone are very nice and extremely helpful. They never rush me off the phone . At 73 I appreciate all of your help. I will always sing praises for Jonathan Green and his great grand son Barry Sr. and great great grandson Barry II. May God continue to bless your legacy. Thanks also for sending this helpful information .
Thanks, Sylvia!
I used the
Crab grass preventer plus green up fertilizer and the crab grass is still there with other weeds
I struggle every spring with crab grass and lawn weeds
I’m diligent abt lawn care but the lawn is still not weed and crab grass free
Green-Up with Crabgrass Preventer is a pre-emergent for listed weeds and pre and post emergent to the 3 leaf stage for crabgrass. You will need a post emergent broadleaf weed killer such as Lawn Weed Control for any weeds already growing. It is too early for crabgrass to be germinating in many areas. If your soil temperature has not reached 57° consistently, it is not crabgrass you are seeing but another off type grass.
When is the best time to apply grub control
As a preventative, Grub and Insect Control is best applied the first week of July.
What is the best dark green lawn seed for
Sussex County, DE
For full sun through partial shade, Black Beauty Ultra is a great choice.
I, too, have a moss issue. It is everywhere–in my lawn, in my blueberries, asparagus patch, veggie garden, flower beds, even on my block walls and walkways! Last fall I used your Moss Control on my lawn but my moss won that battle. I just finished thatching the front yard and when the weather cooperates, plan to apply Mag-I-Cal, Love Your Soil, and Green Up, then tackle the spongy back yard. After several days I plan to put down grass seed and top with mushroom manure out front.
Can I use Mag-I-Cal in my veggie and flower beds? (I am trying to maintain my property without lawn/landscape services so would appreciate your suggestions.)
Moss is caused by drainage issues, lack of light, low pH, soil compaction or a combination of these factors. You are addressing low pH and compaction with Mag-I-Cal and Love Your Soil. Both Mag-I-cal and Love Your Soil may be used in gardens and flower beds.
This Winter our soil did not freeze. We have always had too many Squirals active on the yard but this year it has become a serious problem. Is there any product that will discourage the Squiral presence?
We do not make a squirrel repellent.
how soon can I seed after applying crabgrass & weed control. THANK YOU
You will need to wait 3 – 4 months after applying Green-Up with Crabgrass Preventer. At that time it will be too hot to seed so we suggest seeding in September.
wild violets in my lawn. there are to many to pull out and not many weed killer actually work on them. What do you guys have for the job?
Wild violet thrives in acidic soil or calcium deficient soil. We recommend testing your soil pH and applying Mag-I-Cal for Acidic Soil. Green–Up Weed and Feed will control some of this infestation. Wild violet is very prolific and will require repeated treatments with a selective spray due to its tough, waxy leaves.
Can I use Black Beauty grass seeds to my Zoysia lawn ?
Zoysia is very thick. Tall fescue is a bunch type grass and it will not overtake a Zoysia lawn.
A couple questions, please. Some background first.
I have a new lawn; hydroseeded in mid October 21019 after new house construction. The property has never received “lawn care”; the prior owner just cut the grass and raked leaves in fall. And I have a couple gumball trees to contend with. I have so far applied Lesco products: fertilizer (18-0-3), Dimension (0-0-7) and Lockup +2 Broadleaf Weed Killer (0-0-7).
I ‘m pretty sure the soil is compacted. I am afraid to aerate before next spring or even fall so that I don’t disturb the roots of the new grass (Maryland’s Patriot, tall fescue). Also, I fear the ph is low nut need a soil test to confirm. In addition to addressing these two issues, I want to kill a grassy weed that appeared when the grass greened up last month. It grows faster and taller than the fescue and has long, wide blades (with a mild, spine-like crease in the middle of the blade) which erupt from the round stems that come from the base of the plant. I realize this information may not allow you to specifically identify the weed, which I will pursue, but wonder, in the meantime, is there a broad-spectrum liquid herbicide for undesirable grasses that I could turn to immediately to get on top of them.
Your top tips are great. I have shared them with a number of other people who, like me, struggle every year with the challenges of caring for a lawn and want to get the best results possible.
Thank you.
When you can, you definitely need a soil analysis test. In the meantime, if you live in a geographical area that traditionally has low pH, it would benefit you to apply Mag-I-Cal. To loosen compaction without aeration, you can apply Love Your Soil. Neither of these will hurt young grass.
I put down the Crabgrass preventer and Fertilizer, however my Crabgrass seems to be very stubborn. Should I apply more Crabgrass preventer?
The active ingredient in our Green-Up for Crabgrass Preventer is a pre-emergent and a post emergent up to the 3 leaf stage. If you have mature crabgrass, it will not kill it. If your soil temperature is below 57° at this time, you are not seeing crabgrass but some other off type grass.
Your products are amazing and resources are great.I was recomended to Jonathan Green by my local ace hardware and am impressed. I will never use anything else. Thank you for such great products!
Have been using your products since the mid 70s both for my landscape business and my home. Have gotten some really great results over the years and a lot of happy customers along the way. Delivery was always on time and friendly people to deal with. Thanks
Will new grass seed laid dormant by spring snowfall germinate once the outside and soil temps rise?
Yes, it will.
I started to use your products last year and have had very good success. Thanks! What is your opinion of applying lime? How does that compare with Mag-I-Cal or used in conjunction with it?
Also, I applied a little bit (maybe 1 lb over 1,000 S.F.) of Green-Up with Crabgrass Preventer on April 1 to an area of the yard that was re-seeded last fall. I probably shouldn’t have. Would that grass seed from germinating?
Use Mag-I-Cal instead of lime. You need less and it works faster. If your seed that was planted last fall was mowed 2-3 times, it should be fine to have had Green-Up with Crabgrass Preventer applied to it.
Is MAG 1 CAL safe for pets
Yes. Mag-I-Cal is safe for pets.
Hi there, I’m having some trouble with weeds on my lawn. I’ve applied a chemical to kill the weeds which look like it’s done. There are a lot of patches in the yard now where the weeds were. Not sure if I should fill with top soil and re-seed or ?? Thank you !!
You need to wait at least 30 days after applying weed killer before you can seed. Refer to the product label for these directions. At that time, it may be too hot to seed. You may have to wait until September.
What is the proper mowing height for my lawn?
We recommend mowing at a height of 3 inches until the last cut before winter at which time you can reduce it to 2 inches.
I am in central jersey and it is currently April 9th. I am trying to get my lawn back to being healthy and green. I have two dogs that use it often but lately I’ve been trying to keep them off of the grass. I thatched and over seeded in the fall with your seed products which produced a great result. I have some bare spots from the winter combined with dog urine. I am looking to continue improving this spring. Can you give me advice as far as seeding, fertilizer and perhaps some weed control. Thanks in advance
Bare spots can be reseeded using seed and Green-Up for Seeding and Sodding. After the new seedlings have been mowed three times, you can use Lawn Weed Control as a selective control for broadleaf weeds.
I live in East Tennessee. I have read a lot of your articles and watched your YouTube videos. I trust your advice. My yard is grass plus weeds. I just mow whatever comes up. What things do I need to do right now to get a real lawn. The task seems to be overwhelming. Thanks for your help.
We suggest starting with a soil analysis test from your state university cooperative extension service to see what your soil needs for optimum health. You also need to find out what kind of grass is in your lawn now to figure out a plan for a lawn renovation. Please email us through our FAQ page when you have the test results and current grass type and we will come up with a plan.
I live in St Paul MN, did a soil test a few years ago and my lawn was too alkaline. I used Love Your Soil and Mag-I-Cal for alkaline soils (purple bag) and followed up with the orange bag fall fert. Each season I’ve used Love Your Soil, but by my big trees I think I need to aerate as the soil is very compacted. My neighbor has crab grass so I would like to continue using the pre-emergent so I’m planning to do work soon (mid August). I do have a sprinkler system so that will help the process, but I’m wondering if using the amendments (LYS & M-I-C) after aeration, then overseeding and starter fert is recommended? Should I also retest my soil?
You don’t mention using amendments after aeration on that page, but figured that was a great time to get the amendments in. Any advice is welcomed.
Your products have really improved my lawn without too many chemicals. My goal is to get to a place where I can go all organic.
If you are aerating, you can apply the soil amendments right after. This will allow some of the product to get down deeper into the holes. After that, it is fine to overseed.